We all want perfect, yet natural looking skin…
No one really likes to look like they are wearing makeup, but they like how it can make the skin look – even, fresh, healthy and generally brighter!
If your foundation is not doing that for you, maybe you have the wrong texture for your skin type, but with so much choice how do you find the perfect foundation for your skin?
The complexion in general for me, as a makeup artist, is the most important part to a look I create. It needs to be perfectly applied, seamless and not too noticeable.
You can be wearing the most beautiful lip colour, or a fabulously blended smokey eye, but if these are applied to a makeup with bad, uneven, patchy looking skin, you will notice the bad skin more than the good parts to a makeup – it’s all out balance, but you really need to ace your base to get the best results.
I would spend most of my time applying makeup on the skin.
I prep using skincare (never skip this bit), then a primer of some sort, depending on skin type, then use foundation – it’s all about the correct application, then add concealer wherever is needed and finish with a highlighter.
Once this even, smooth, bright looking base has been applied perfectly, looking like a second skin, you will find that everything else falls into place so easily.
MB Pro Tip – You can make any foundation look good if your skin underneath is in good condition and prepped well!
I can always tell if a skin is well hydrated as soon as I apply foundation to the skin as it won’t sit as close to the skin as it should, the bond is less like a second skin than that of a well hydrated skin where the bond makes the join from skin to foundation invisible.
When choosing a foundation for someone I always go by their skin type first, not coverage, but how the skin will become during the day…
Does your skin become oily, or is dehydrated and looking dull or is it tight and dry?
This determines the best textures to use to make sure we are giving the skin the best chance to loo natural for your skin type.
Just because a foundation looks great on a friend or a celebrity, or it sounds good in advertising, does not mean it will work for you if your skin behaves differently during the day.
Coverage for me is not a big concern, as most foundations today are so good at being layered and you can build up the coverage by a different application method.
MB Pro Tip – For any liquid foundation change the coverage by adding in a serum or primer to dilute for a lighter finish, more even and adaptable finish.
Use sweeping movements with a foundation brush, starting from the centre outwards to guarantee no nasty lines around the jaw/hair lines.
To build coverage, use a ‘press and roll’ or dabbing movement with brush to layer upon layer the texture to gain a full coverage on problem areas, not the entire face, otherwise it can look like a mask – it is not natural to have the entire face at one coverage.
If you skin is somewhat more oily than dry and shine is a constant concern where you are blotting all day long, don’t buy anything with a cream finish and even a liquid that states illuminating etc… Of course it sounds good, but with an oily skin, you will get your own glow with oil during the day, so don’t add another in, as you will look so shiny.
Try to stick to matte finishes, definitely oil free formulas and the best bet is a powder foundation, it means less touch ups for you during the day.
My choice is the Inika Mineral Powder Foundation. (RRP $59.95)
When using the Inika Kabuki brush to apply and almost buff it into skin, it gives such a beautifully smooth finish and you can alter the coverage by dabbing more on the skin. Today, powder foundations such as this one are not as talc based and thick looking, so your skin, when oily especially, can still look so fresh and have a glow, but less touch ups as there is less shine.
The most common skin condition is combination, party oily on the T-Zone and dry on the cheek area.
In Australia, our skin can be very dehydrated, which effects our foundation – we can see little dots or it separates easily if this occurs. More water based, hydration style products are needed to instantly infuse water to the skin.
Rich textures will take longer to absorb and will be wasted on a skin that needs lighter, water base textures.
Don’t mistake lack of water in your skin to be dry – dry skin is when it feels tight and can be flakey – this needs rich textures and is normally someone with sensitive or a mature skin.
This skin can often look dull also; as having no water in your skin is like a dying plant it can look flat and lifeless.
Try to find a foundation in a liquid form, it must be water based and have a brightening element to it.
It’s also a good idea to find one with some anti-oxidants in it to help with the overall skin brightening and giving the skin more than just colour in a bottle.
An SPF is always good for extra protection throughout the day but if tanning purposely, a separate sunscreen is required.
My choice is the Benefit Hello Flawless Oxygen Wow Foundation (RRP $55)
It has all the benefits I listed above and I like that it is lightweight, but still can gain a great buildable coverage on areas that may need it.
It is not overly shiny like some foundations, which can just be too much for our climate, as we tend to get a little T-Zone shine.
When having a dehydrated skin, you can use a light pressed powder to control shine, but it’s best to keep to a minimum so your skin looks as natural as possible,
Lastly the dry skin…
This skin, just like in skincare, needs nourishment, not hydration, but nourishment – there is a difference!
The richer texture will take longer to penetrate into the skin, which is good for a dry skin, as it needs to coat the skin to protect and almost add comfort to the skin, as this type of skin can be slightly tight and/or flakey – not to mention a little red on the cheeks due to sensitivity.
A rich texture on a younger or dehydrated skin is wasted as that skin type is craving water, a lighter feel, so it tends to sit on top of the skin too long, eventually being evaporated away being a waste, so it is important to know what your skin is needing.
In foundation, this skin needs a richer, slightly creamier liquid – it can still be in a pump bottle, but just not as runny…
It should have some anti-ageing properties like lifting; smoothing and still can have brightening elements also.
The colour is very important as this skin type can look a little pink, so a warm/flat tone is great rather than one with too much colour as you generally need to tone down the pink/redness not add to it.
Lastly the texture should feel very comforting and look natural, yet can be built up in coverage where necessary.
My choice is the Lancôme Teint Visionnaire foundation (RRP $65)
I use this foundation a lot for anyone that just needs a little comfort and nourishment as it gives such a smooth finish.
There are other foundations out there with even more nourishment that come in a pot, but they can become very thick looking and I still want the foundation to look realistic to skin.
I also LOVE that the lid has a highlighter built in for under the eyes, once you have concealed.
As mentioned earlier ladies, every skin is different and my suggestions are just personal favourites that I find work well for these 3 main skin types.
It’s important to test or ask for a sample, or even better, have it applied to your skin before purchasing, so you can feel if it is right for you!
Remember to not be heavy handed when applying as often it can make the skin look worse!!
Prep well with skincare, as that is what makes the difference as well as a good application method as I shared above and you will have such a natural glow ladies!
‘Beautiful Makeup Starts with Beautiful Skin’ Shu Uemura
By Michael Brown