Feeling blinded by science and bamboozled by the alphabet of skincare ingredients? Emma-Charlotte Bangay decodes the A, B and C of Skincare you need to know about.
Antioxidants:
There are many different types of edible antioxidants, which are sourced from various fruits, vegetables and plants. When it comes to skincare, the primary object of antioxidants is to protect the skin from oxidative stress – pollution and environmental changes – that promote ageing. Many also neutralize free-radical damage – a result of UV damage to the cells – but above all else, antioxidants aim to reinforce the strength of the skin and collagen synthesis.
Antioxidants are your friend if:
- You want healthy skin. Think of it as the balanced diet for your epidermis; topical supplements for your skin. If you feed your skin with healthy antioxidants, you are strengthening it, promoting health and rejuvenation as well as a long, lovelier life!
- You are generally concerned with the signs of time. “All skins can benefit from antioxidants, however for sun lovers or those wanting to prevent and reverse the signs of ageing – antioxidants are a must!” says Katanya Ficorilli, Dermal Therapist at Total Face Group
- You are also vigilant about sunscreen. Antioxidants do assist in protection of UV rays but they are not to be used as a sunscreen. “An SPF is your number one anti ageing tool!” Katanya insists.
Top Tip:
Technological advancement means that the stability of antioxidants is improving, meaning they are more compatible with sensitive skins and formulations are now longer lasting. “The irritancy profile of cosmetics has improved significantly,” explains Katanya, “meaning that many skin types can use vitamins without irritation.”
Vitamin B:
The mission for Vitamin B is to hydrate and boost the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss. Vitamin B is water-soluble making it perfect for problematic skin, and beneficial for improving skin tone and reducing any redness. Generally sourced from plants, Vitamin B is perfect for all ages and skin conditions – and is most popular in the 20-year and upwards age bracket.
Vitamin B is your friend if:
- You have redness (rosacea), compromised skin or breakouts and irregularities. Vitamin B is big on repair, so it’s great for the underdog of epidermises that can’t take most other anti-ageing ingredients. “Vitamin B is also suitable for those clients with a slight oil flow who don’t want something that is congesting or irritating on the skin,” adds Katanya,
- Your skin is feeling beaten and battered by autumn (already) as it strengthens the skins barrier enabling it to lock in moisture. This makes it great for climate-changed skins and those that are naturally drier than others.
- You suffer from pigmentation. Vitamin B3 helps inhibit pigmentation clusters, which lead to brown ‘age’ spots.
Top Tip:
The future of Vitamin B use is bright, with B3 vitamins efficacious when applied both morning and night. Furthermore, if you are using a retinol you can do so in tandem with Vitamin B to boost the efficacy of both.
Vitamin C:
“If you want skin care that actually improves your skin over time – consider Vitamin C,” suggests Dr Christopher Leat, Cosmetic Doctor, Envisage Clinic. “Vitamin C is a powerful anti-oxidant as it helps prevent sun-damage from occurring, and can even start to reverse the effects of sun-damage on the skin,” he adds.
Vitamin C is your friend if:
- Your feel your skin is lacking youthful plumpness. “Vitamin C is one of a very select number of skin care ingredients that increase collagen levels in the skin,” notes Dr Leat. “From the age of 24 you lose 2 1/2ml (two and a half ml) of collagen from your face every year which doesn’t sound like a whole lot, but it’s a 40ml cup of collagen loss by the age of 40! Believe me- anything that slows that down or replenishes it is a GOOD thing!”
- You can’t stomach Vitamin C in a tablet. “Using a quality Vitamin C serum directly on the skin is thought to be 20 times more effective than taking it in food or tablet form,” adds Dr Leat.
- Your skin is looking dull. “It is a key ingredient for brightening the skin and helps to diminish pigmentation, whilst also being suitable for all skin types,” explains Kirsty Warren, Dermal Clinician at Libertybelle
- You want skincare with serious kick. “L-ascorbic acid has been proven in multiple peer reviewed articles to be the most viable and active form of vitamin C specific to the skin,” explains Kirsty.
Top Tip:
Always apply after your cleanser, and before your moisturizer and sunscreen. With any skincare regime, you should always layer your products by their consistency, applying the thinner serums first before building up to the thicker consistencies, explains Kirsty. And be vigilant. Many studies have shown that good quality Vitamin C serums reduce sun-damage, pigmentation and blemishes when used regularly and long-term.
The A, B +C Rescu. Edit
Estée Lauder DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Crème SPF 15, $45 contains a blend of antioxidants to boost skin barrier lipids and provide intense hydration.
Ultraceuticals B2 Hydrating Serum, $85 has a double dose of Vitamin B to soothe irritation of dry skin and improve its ongoing water retention capacity.
Medik8 C-Tetra®, $78.20 is designed for women from the 20s-40s to aid collagen strength and prevent free radical damage.